Wiping out is part of the contract. You’re going to get tossed, you’re going to get "washed," and you’re going to get tired. But the reason we paddle back out is for that one perfect ride that makes the salt in our eyes worth it.
In surfing, as in business or personal goals, 90% of the game is positioning. You sit, you watch, and you wait. It’s easy to get restless, but the wait is where the intuition is built. You learn to read the patterns, distinguish a "closer" from a "rider," and stay ready so you don’t have to get ready. Dropping In subtitle Surf's Up
If you'd like to further, please let me know: Wiping out is part of the contract